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Minifigures

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kursdata said:
I work with precision but don’t really go into advanced techniques like dry brushing and such.
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Oh please do consider dry-brushing, I’m no Grandmaster either but dry brushing is very easy and a great way of adding texture for the perennially lazy like me!

It will transform your life, trust me! Water your paint, dip the brush in, then rub it on a paper towel until literally almost dry. Now lightly brushed in areas you wish to highlight ridges, it’s great for skin! Do a lighter coat of the skin tone over your lovely base tone you have, especially eyes and anywhere the skin crenulates, you’ll love the results!

Im a basic painter, and lazy as hell, but have painted hundreds of Warhammer 40K models , especially Drukhari, who have heaps of fleshy bits (eg Wyches).

Trust me, dry brushing is far easier than you fear!
 
Loinclothslave said:
Oh please do consider dry-brushing, I’m no Grandmaster either but dry brushing is very easy and a great way of adding texture for the perennially lazy like me!

It will transform your life, trust me! Water your paint, dip the brush in, then rub it in a paper towel. Now lightly brushed in areas you wish to highlight fudges, it’s great for skin! Do a lighter coat of the skin tone over your lovely base tone you have, especially eyes and anywhere the skin care i lates, you’ll love the results!

Im a basic painter, and lazy as hell, but have painted hundreds of Warhammer 40K models , especially Drukhari, who have heaps of fleshy bits (eg Wyches).

Trust me, dry brushing is far easier than you fear!
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Using a brush as big as possible, I presume?
 
kursdata said:
Using a brush as big as possible, I presume?
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Use an older brush because the technique can damage the bristles . I’ve done this with very small brushes, but generally just a standard Citadel brush - Games Workshop actually sell brushes specifically for dry brushing (and pricey compared to hobby stores) but that’s unnecessary
 
kursdata said:
Using a brush as big as possible, I presume?
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No. I understand the technique. Use a standard brush ,with 90% of the paint removed and lightly go over the more prominent parts,(i.e breasts belly cock,etc) using a lighter shade of the flesh colour. Hope this helps ??
 
kursdata said:
This figure comes from a different source. Another shop offers it as a nude girl stretching in the morning or something, and I had a nasty idea how to use her. The hands are needed to bend a little for fitting on the patibulum. She is available in metal and resin, and I think the metal variant is easier to bend. Resin can be bent in a very limited extent after placing the figure into hot water. (photo credit: https://www.hfminis.co.uk )
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Oooh, I do love imaginative use of figures and adjusting the pose or “converting” - this is my favourite part of building miniatures (and tbh the painting is less interesting for me, I tend to be primarily motivated for making a satisfactory appearance so I can use them in gaming- I dont like gaming with unpainted models)

But conversion to make more unique poses or mixing and matching parts to make more unique models runs a close second to the actual gaming.
 
kursdata said:
Thanks, I will try it next time. I think I should use a tan base color then dry brush the default skin color onto it.
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I forgot to mention that it's best to practice on a scrap/spare model first to figure out the technique to your satisfaction....then you can work on your pride and joys.
 
was still use technique do do shadows just paint very small and cerefully black paint between details like muscules but still think using method when u use black ink or black paint with much water is still better looks like on details also renember when was younger was not painting shadows on miniatures but with shadows even if are great paint they looks better more realistic always also drybrush is nice method renember when was paint fur on furry big animal last time drybrush do great work but think also fast destroying brushes too so better when drybrush switch to lower price brush maybe not from games workshop and ur best to mega details not epecialy also vallejo paints are best for all miniatures even better from games workshop paints who rating on second place on ranking third nice to paint are tamiya japanese paints but arent acrylic but with alcohol so they should not being add water to they anyway they still are great paints also worst ever have are revell paints are to much dense even if u add water are to big pigment part in they so not recomended using they also thinking still better going for me in conversion miniatures and sculpt they from begin than pro painting also are avalible somewhere to buy was called ebob puppets are ready skeletons from metal to sculpt and conversion and u can change they pose but is also now so many avalible 3d print miniatures no need to tired and sculpt something from begin when they are avalible right now eariel was only games workshop and other companys now u can choose even model for print in 3d :cat:
 
Rias said:
was still use technique do do shadows just paint very small and cerefully black paint between details like muscules but still think using method when u use black ink or black paint with much water is still better looks like on details also renember when was younger was not painting shadows on miniatures but with shadows even if are great paint they looks better more realistic always also drybrush is nice method renember when was paint fur on furry big animal last time drybrush do great work but think also fast destroying brushes too so better when drybrush switch to lower price brush maybe not from games workshop and ur best to mega details not epecialy also vallejo paints are best for all miniatures even better from games workshop paints who rating on second place on ranking third nice to paint are tamiya japanese paints but arent acrylic but with alcohol so they should not being add water to they anyway they still are great paints also worst ever have are revell paints are to much dense even if u add water are to big pigment part in they so not recomended using they also thinking still better going for me in conversion miniatures and sculpt they from begin than pro painting also are avalible somewhere to buy was called ebob puppets are ready skeletons from metal to sculpt and conversion and u can change they pose but is also now so many avalible 3d print miniatures no need to tired and sculpt something from begin when they are avalible right now eariel was only games workshop and other companys now u can choose even model for print in 3d :cat:
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Thank you. I don't want to overuse black shadows because they would drastically change my style, but for some details it may have a point.
 
You have an amazing collection @kursdata. As for painting, there's good advice here, especially drybrushing, but mine would be to find a technique you're comfortable with. Don't forget it's your hobby and you should please mainly yourself. ;)
 
Wragg said:
You have an amazing collection @kursdata. As for painting, there's good advice here, especially drybrushing, but mine would be to find a technique you're comfortable with. Don't forget it's your hobby and you should please mainly yourself. ;)
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Thank you. As I mentioned that recent bullying case for my allegedly low-level paintwork, that time I had decided that I did't want to share with strangers how my figures look anymore, but people here are truly kind, encouraging and grateful.
 
phillpain said:
nice figures and painting. there used to be a series of 54 mm white metal figures of rather well built girls.. the only way to get them is at a swap meet ( they have not been produced for some time
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Phoenix? Discussed here

Looks like they are available again

Lost World of Atlantis (54mm) - Lost Minis Wiki

www.miniatures-workshop.com www.miniatures-workshop.com

S&D Models - 1/32 - Fantasy - www.sanddmodels.co.uk

S&D Models Scale Kit & Model Manufacturers
www.sanddmodels.co.uk www.sanddmodels.co.uk
 
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